Mordant-free Natural Dyeing of Cotton Fabric
Natural dyes, while biodegradable, are usually used together with mordants
to enhance dye uptake due to natural dyes’ poor affinities with textiles.
However, mordants may contain heavy metals that cause severe contamination
of water sources. To address this issue, this project has developed
a mordant-free natural dyeing method.
An Innovative Natural Dyeing Solution
The project uses metal organic frameworks (MOFs) to functionalise the
fabric surface, making dyeing more effective. The process begins by
dipping the fabric in an ultrasonic bath or a padder containing a metal
ion solution and a ligand ion solution. This facilitates the formation of
MOFs, a class of compounds consisting of metal ions and ligand with pores
in between, on the fabric surface.
After that, the functionalised fabric is processed with natural dye in a
water-based bath. The pore size in the MOFs can be optimised to permit
adsorption of various dyes, thereby enhancing dye uptake without the use
for mordants.

The porous structure of MOFs allows the adsorption of various dyes,
thereby enhancing dye uptake

MOF-functionalised cotton fabric (top) show more notable dyeing
performance
Enhancing Dyeing Performance
This mordant-free dyeing method offers at least a 50% higher dye uptake
than the conventional natural dyeing method. MOF-modified fabrics also
meet four AATCC standards of colourfastness at a level no lower than 3.5.
Additionally, fabrics dyed by this mordant-free dyeing method have
excellent antibacterial properties, notable biodegradability and cause no
skin irritation.

Project video

Showcasing the project in the International Exhibition of Inventions
Geneva
The modification of fabric surfaces using MOFs has great potential to
replace the use of mordants as fixatives of natural dye, while encouraging
the use of natural dye as an alternative to synthetic dye. This method
mitigates pollution in effluent and greatly reduces the cost of wastewater
treatment. The project received a Gold Medal in the International
Exhibition of Inventions Geneva 2023, highlighting its innovative and
environmental significance.
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